Siberian Adventure part 3

Some information taken from Wikipedia about Baikal and River Angara

Lake Baikal was known as the "North Sea" in historical Chinese texts. Very little was known to Europeans about the lake until the Russian expansion into the area in the 17th century. The first Russian explorer to reach Lake Baikal was Kurbat Ivanov in 1643.

The Trans-Siberian railway was built between 1896 and 1902. The scenic railway around the south western end of Lake Baikal required 200 bridges and 33 tunnels; until its completion, a train ferry transported railcars across the lake (from Port Baikal to Mysovaya) for a number of years.

Lake Baikal is in a rift valley, created by the Baikal Rift Zone, where the crust of the earth is pulling apart. At 636 kilometres (395 mi) long and 79 km (49 mi) wide, Lake Baikal has the largest surface area of any freshwater lake in Asia (31,722 km²/12,248 sq mi) and is the deepest lake in the world (1,642 m/5,387 ft). The bottom of the lake is 1,186.5 metres (3,893 ft) below sea level, but below this lies some 7 km (4.3 mi) of sediment, placing the rift floor some 8–11 kilometres (5.0–6.8 mi) below the surface: the deepest continental rift on Earth^. In geological terms, the rift is young and active—it widens about two cm per year. The fault zone is also seismically active; there are hot springs in the area and notable earthquakes every few years. The lake drains into the Angara tributary of the Yenisei.

Its age is estimated at 25–30 million years, making it one of the most ancient lakes in geological history. The lake is completely surrounded by mountains. The Baikal Mountains on the north shore and the taiga are technically protected as a national park. It contains 27 islands; the largest, Olkhon, is 72 km (45 mi) long and is the third-largest lake-bound island in the world. The lake is fed by as many as three hundred and thirty inflowing rivers. The main ones draining directly into Baikal are the Selenga River, the Barguzin River, the Upper Angara River, the Turka River, the Sarma River and the Snezhnaya River. It is drained through a single outlet, the Angara River.

Despite its great depth, the lake's waters are well-mixed and well-oxygenated throughout the water column, compared to the stratification that occurs in such bodies of water as Lake Tanganyika and the Black Sea.

Few other lakes can equal the extent of biodiversity present in Lake Baikal. Lake Baikal hosts 1,085 species of plants and 1,550 species and varieties of animals. More than 80% of the animals are endemic. The Baikal Seal or Nerpa is found throughout Lake Baikal^. It is one of only three entirely freshwater seal populations in the world. Perhaps the most important local species is the Omul. It is caught, smoked and then sold widely in markets around the lake.

Lake Baikal contains 20% of the earth’s fresh water. It contains more water than the entire great lakes of the north American continent. The Angara River takes from Lake Baikal the equivalent of 5 litres of water for every man woman and child on the planet every day.

A view of the entrance to Lake Baikal from the Angara river. In the summer, the sky and the water are a beautiful shade of deep blue.

















Storms can come and go very quickly over the lake.













Remote villages such as this one, rely on a daily or weekly hydrofoil from Irkutsk for supplies. In the weinter, when the lake and river freeze over, heavy supplies can be bought in over Ice roads. The locals make money during the summer by fishing the lake and selling freshly cooked fish and local trinkets to tourists.



Part of the old trans siberian railway that used to run along the south western edge of the lake. It is now used as a tourist railway from Port Baikal, at the entrance to the Angara river, to sludvianka, a town where the old railway meets the new one.Trians run daily in both directions in summer, and stop feequently for tourists to take pictures, buy food and even swim in the lake.

So there I was, hauling a load from Irkutsk to listvyanka which is on Lake Baikal. Now in the winter, this is not the best journey to take, only some 100 km’s but in the deep Siberian winter, at minus 45c with deep, deep snow and the Ice feet thick, not a journey I would attempt. Fortunately, this is the middle of July, beautiful sunny day, temperatures of plus 30c and a beautiful Russian girl next to me. The road itself is the equivalent of a poor quality A road in the UK, mostly single carriage way with the odd stretch of 3 lanes for passing, a collection of potholes joined together with tarmac. On one particular hill, where the road turns into 3 lanes to allow for passing slower moving vehicles, I came up behind a pair of very old cement trucks crawling along at about 40 Kph. Checking my mirror, I noticed a coach a little way behind me, and making sure it was clear ahead, I pulled out to pass a the cement trucks. Now I was pretty heavy too, but was pulling about 45 Kph, and judged that I had enough room before the brow of the hill to complete the manoeuvre. Imagine my surprise, when I looked in my off side mirror, to see the coach trying to overtake me on the wrong side of the road! It was quite an old coach, and was full of day trippers, and people returning home from shopping in Irkutsk. It’s speed was about 1 Kph faster than mine, and we were getting closer, and closer to the brow of the hill. As it passed me, I saw the faces of the passengers, none looked at all concerned at this, in fact a couple of kids actually waved at me, were they saying good bye? Now I was between a rock and a hard place, because I was about half way past the cement trucks, the following one had closed right up on the leader, giving me nowhere to pull in, what should I do? Slow down and let the bus in, at the same time lose my momentum? Keep going and possibly become another statistic on Russia’s roads?

What I actually did was, close my eyes, keep my foot down and pray! Well I’m here to tell the tale, so I must have lived!

Another trip from Irkutsk to Lake Baikal, this time for pleasure, showed me an insight into the Russian character. We decided to take a day trip on the hydrofoil, down the Angara River and out onto the lake. In summer it is the most beautiful trip you can imagine, the water on the river comes from the lake which is crystal clear, so fresh you can dip a glass into the lake water and drink from it with no problems. The sky is a deep blue, which reflects on the water, and contrasts with the lush green of the nature, somehow like god saying “sorry for the harsh winter, here is something beautiful to look at” The local fishermen on the lake, go out early in the morning to catch a local fish found only in Baikal, called Omul, a trout like fish, which they cook on open fires, and sell to the visitors. It tastes of heaven!

Now on this trip we got on what was probably the oldest hydrofoil on the fleet, the engine sounded like it had a bag of spanners inside, and the smoke when it first started was like a deep black cloud. The journey is about 60 km’s and it’s nice to go up on deck to take in the fresh air.

About half way to the lake, there was a loud “BANG!” and we came to an abrupt halt. There was smoke coming from a hatch up forward into the passenger cabin, and several crewmen ran to the hatch, opened it, and disappeared inside. It was then I noticed the rocks on the river bank towards which the current was taking us. I looked around nervously for the lift rafts or at the very least a life jacket, when I noticed the lack of panic on the boat. The Russians were making a holiday out of it. Various bags of food were unpacked on the deck, fresh cooked fish with homemade bread and pickles of all shapes and sizes. My girlfriend took our supplies of fruit juice and home baked cakes, somebody produced several bottles of vodka and some Georgian red wine, and very soon a party was in full swing. Now me, I’m standing near the side thinking, can I swim well enough to reach the shore?

After about 20 minutes, in which time we have drifted very close to the rocks, and also consumed vast amounts of vodka, a small boat appeared driven by an old lady, or babushka. She smiled toothlessly up at us, and a rope, which was thicker than her was thrown across. With the line attached, and her engine screaming, she managed to help us to keep station against the current. By now the Russians were singing traditional folk songs and some old soviet numbers, everyone was filling themselves with pickles, cake and vodka, some all at the same time, and not one of them was in the slightest bit worried.

Eventually the engine restarted and we finished our journey without further mishap. It was after this trip that I really began to appreciate the Russian people, and how they take everything that is thrown at them. All that is except taxi drivers! But that’s another story......

Another small village on the banks of Baikal.

The water really is so blue, and fresh.

Siberian Adventure part 2

Irkutsk ihas some nice theatres. this is the drama theatre in the city centre. There is also a music theatre which is well known throughout russia for it's musical productions.









Irkutsk has some great churches that are well preserved considering that religion was banned under the communist regime. being russian Orthodox, they are very colourful both inside and out.

siberian adventure Part 1

A replica of a Siberian outpost, between Irkutsk and Baikal. Talei is a monument to the pioneers who first settled in the area


The trading post and Jail!














The whole fort is made up of period buildings including a church, a fort and a trading post.


Irkutsk main shopping street is a pictureque street full of local colour and businesses. Just like other major cities, Irkutsk has it's share of retail parks and malls, but they have managed to preserve the old town centre with indoor and outdoor markets, including a large chinese market that represents the large ethnic chinese community in the city.






The river Angara, which flows through Irkutsk, originates from Lake Baikal.
The river bank is a lovely walk on a summers day. During winter, the river freezes allowing people to drive across.
There are of course, still signs of the communist regime that ruled russia for 70 years, including this statue of Lenin.
Irkutsk also has a number of very beautiful churches, remarkably well kept considering religion was mostly banned under the commmunists.
A view of the main park from the river bank, it was a pleasent suprise for me to find that Irkutsk was such a beautiful city.

A view of the river Angara which flows from Lake Baikal through Irkutsk.

In part two, i will post more pictures of Irkutsk, and the remarkable lake Baikal, one of the modern wonders of the world, together with the Angara river which is something to see.

Taking a break..........part one

So there you are, on the motorway, and you realise you need to stop for a break. It could be a Tacho break, a "comfort" break or just a need to stretch your legs for a few minutes.

Now, for those of you in a car, you park outside the main entrance in a nicely tended garden environment, with just a short walk to the door. If however you are in a truck, you get parked about half a mile away from the main entrance, tucked away where no one can see you.

As you get out of your cab, inevitably it will be raining and your bottom step will line up nicely with the deepest puddle in the area. The first thing you notice is that certain aroma, the one that says some people can't be bothered to walk to the main building to use the toilets. You negotiate the puddles, the potholes, the bags of rubbish and other trucks, walk along the muddy path through the field, cross the stream, climb over the fence, dodge the cars on the main road leading to the service area as you cross the faded zebra crossing, and walk past all the empty coach parking bays that you are not allowed to use.

Inevitably there is one coach full of geriatrics, all walking at a pace that even a snail would be embarrassed by, three abreast blocking your path, and you are too polite to push them out the way, just when you see a chance to pass them, another group come the other way forcing you onto the road and straight into a large puddle.
You finally make the main building after dodging the RAC salesman and the blonde with an ass the size of Belgium who is trying to tempt you to a new credit card, and spend the next few minutes looking through all the signs to find one telling you where the toilets are. Be careful, on some new signs it's hard to tell a man from a woman. You then dodge around the horde of school kids running between the burger bar, the shop and the games machines, around the long queue for the overpriced coffee shop, and the sign saying "CAUTION WET FLOOR.

Finally you reach the gents; of course if you just want a wee then all the urinals will be occupied except the one for small boys that is two feet from the floor! This requires accuracy and skill to avoid giving your shoes a spray, aim too low and its water on the Cherry Blossom, aim too high and its splash back time! Of course, they always choose to flush while you are using them, and being full of chewing gum, you watch anxiously while the water level rises dangerously near the rim. Nervously you move your feet wider apart.

If you need to use the stalls, then the fun really starts. Usually they are all occupied, so you stand around whistling quietly to yourself, while everyone thinks you are A) some kind of pervert, or B) looking for the glory hole! But wait! A stall comes free, you rush to get there before someone else, but you’re too slow, the man mountain that was waiting on the opposite side of the aisle beats you too it. So you wait again, getting ready to run out of the blocks like an Olympic sprinter. Just as you begin to get desperate, another one comes free and of course it's the one that the door hinges creak extremely loudly so everyone looks at you, the lock is hanging on with one screw, meaning you will nervously sit with your foot firmly against the door just in case, and of course, the previous occupier had 10 pints and a large curry the night before.

Now I don't know about you, but I have a phobia about finding the toilet roll holder empty, so that is the first thing I check. It's too late once you've done the business, you can't call room service, or phone a friend, so I always check before getting seated.
Is it just me, or is there something disconcerting about sitting down on a warm toilet seat after some stranger? If you are home and follow the wife in, then it seems sort of comfortable, but a complete stranger?

Now a word of advice, and this applies to the ladies as well as the men, if it is one of the new stalls with the automatic flush system, take off your Hi Viz jacket before sitting down otherwise every time you move, you will get a jet of freezing cold water where the sun don't shine!

Once the serious business has been done, its time to wipe the slate clean! Now there are two types of toilet rolls, those that are so big they get stuck in the holder, every time you try to pull off a length, you get one sheet, no matter if you give one sharp tug, or try to ease them out, just as it looks as though you will be successful, a single sheet rips off, just add it to the growing pile on your knee. Then there are the part used roll that are impossible to find the end of, you try pushing it round one way then the other, try ripping it with your finger nails, but you still only get one sheet at a time.

So, its now time to wash your hands. Can anyone tell me why they have to put a sign above the hot tap saying WARNING THIS WATER IS HOT! Of course it’s bloody hot! It’s a HOT tap! If I wanted cold water, I would use the COLD tap. Why do they have separate taps anyway? As there is never a plug, you have to move your hands quickly between the two taps, first scalding them, then freezing the nails off. Next you try to get some soap, every other sink has a soap dispenser above it, but it is always the third one you try that actually has soap in it! You put some soap on your palms, and press down on either tap, only to get a jet of water so powerful a cruise liner would have trouble sailing up stream, and of course, it sprays out all over your trousers, not so bad if they are dark, but if they are a light colour, EVERYONE in the services will know where you spent the last few minutes.

Now try to dry your hands. Now maths was never my best subject at school, but why is it there are 12 stalls, 20 urinals, 10 wash basins, but only 2 hand dryers? You stand with water dripping off your hands while some old man takes forever to dry his hands. Some hot air blowers will only start if you find the precise spot to place your hands, move them an inch either way and they stop, which is no good if you are trying to furtively direct the flow of air to dry your trousers. But we have a great British inventor to thank for the latest innovation; Mr Dyson is now producing high pressure hand dryers, place your hands in the slot and watch as your skin, hair and finger nails are surgically removed by a razor sharp blast of air.

Oh the joys of being on the road!